BEHIND THE SCENES BEAUTY
starring julia banas
RED PIGMENT FOR EYES AND LIPS
By Beauty Director Christine Cherbonnier
This look was inspired by texture as much as color. I wanted to create a dramatic, dreamy look with an element of tension. Red is a powerful color that evokes many different emotions; I wanted the texture to feel just as complex. My go-to mixing medium these days is the Bionic Gel Activator by Danessa Myricks Beauty. This mixing medium is gel-based so you can really play and manipulate the consistency, unlike most liquid mediums. When using this product I suggest a small mixing bowl instead of a flat makeup artist pallet. The gel creates little balls of liquid that sort of roll around in the bowl before you manually mix it with with the pigment. I love creating my own colors and custom textures, this product will also make you feel a little like a mad scientist.
For the eyes, I started with Makeup Forever Star Lit powder in #590971, covering the entire lid before blending back and forth like a windshield wiper up in the crease. I focused a little color in a circular motion in the inner corner of the eye and the bottom of the brow. I then mixed the same pigment with a few drops of the Bionic Gel Activator, applying it with a flat synthetic brush on the lid. I suggest doing this last step at the very end of your makeup application because after a few moments, the gel will start to crease. I personally love this look when the color starts to become coagulated and creasy, creating lines and organic shapes. If you’re going for a perfect beauty eye, you have a limited amount of time until your color will start to move around. I suggest playing with the color as soon as you get that perfect shot. Even wiping of some of the eye can be the inspiration and can create shapes you wouldn't be able to achieve when applying.
For the lip, I wanted the same color as the eyes but not the same texture. I wanted to create a lip that was not drawn on at all, since there is already a very classic matte lip in the story. I decided to use the Makeup Forever Star Lit powder again as the lip color. This look was the first look of the day and I simply blended the color into the lips with a blending brush to create a blurred line effect. I continued this method throughout the story, seen again in the Behind The Scenes Color Contour look.
For the lips I used a more traditional clear gloss medium, the MAC Texture Gloss for eyes and lips. Custom color mixing is so fun—there are so many mixing mediums for powder gels and creams. If you’re passionate about makeup and color, there is no color or texture you can’t achieve. It just takes a little curiosity, and before you know it, creating your own custom color products will be a part of your makeup process.
Other mixing mediums I suggest are:
Makeup Forever Aqua Seal to create liquid liners from powder and cream pigment. Inglot Duraline is also great to create liquid liners out of existing shadows and loose pigments.
Mehron Mixing Liquid for any pressed or loose pigments.
Ben Nye Liquid Set with any water-activated makeup, as well as the Lumiere powders to create colorful and luminescent paint.
MAC Mixing Medium Gel is great for adhering glitter and loose large particle pigments.