BEHIND THE SCENES BEAUTY
STARRING JOAN SMALLS
SEXY TOUSLED WAVES
By Beauty Director Kayla MiChele @kaylamichelehair
I wanted to create statement-worthy hairstyles for Joan Smalls on this DOCUMENTARY BEAUTY exclusive launch editorial by playing with exaggerated lengths and volumes inspired by the 1970s. For the first look of the shoot, I combined sexy, tousled, natural waves (my favorite texture) with a hippie length that perfectly framed Joan’s hips for a wow factor!
Here's how we achieved the look, and how you can create it yourself when you're feeling like making a statement of your own:
My team of assistants and I prepped a long Perfect Locks Full Lace Human Hair Wig, several days before the shoot. We cut out a u-parting on the top of the wig, which allowed Joan’s natural hair parting to be exposed to achieve a super natural look. We also glued in 26” Perfect Locks Hair Extensions to create the dreamy length and add a boost of thickness. Tutorial coming next week!
SEXY COOL GIRL TEXTURE
I wanted to have the tousled sexy waves feel like bedroom hair, yet evoke an elevated, raw vibe. To achieve this look I misted my go-to texture product EVO Mister Fantastic Blow Out Spray lightly on dry hair from roots to ends, and used the T3 Featherweight Luxe 2I Blow Dryer to dry in the product while scrunching the hair with my hands. I have been using this product for years as my sea salt spray alternative. Most sea salt sprays leave the hair feeling and looking dirty and sometimes deposit unwanted residue. If you let EVO Mister Fantastic Blow Out Spray air dry, it has a beachy, piecey, slightly damp look, which is super cool for photoshoots. But for everyday wear, I suggest giving the hair a good detangle after it dries to soften the texture to look more dry, clean, and fluffy while still textured with amazing hold. After brushing, the hair will become more piecey again in a few minutes.
Time to begin the wave, but make sure the hair is completely dry before you start to avoid breakage. Use YS Park “Shark” Sectioning Clips to section off a horizontal section approximately 2” at the nape. Detangle your sections as your work using the Leader Ultem SP Comb. Grab a 2” diameter section and wave! I used the Hot Tools Professional NanoCeramic Marcel Grip 1 1/4” Curling Iron on Joan’s hair. Start with wrapping the strand around the barrel one time at the root. Next, twist your wrist like you are turning a key to the left or right and then wrap around once again. Twist then wrap, twist then wrap, repeating a twist before every wrap around the curling iron barrel. Once you get to the ends, leave about 1” of the ends out of the curling iron to help make the look not feel too “done.” Hold for five seconds and set the entire head. To make the curling process easier to create on yourself, I recommend a Wand Iron. Prevent burning your hands and work a lot faster with a handy Heat Resistant Glove.
Adding the twist to your technique will create more of an elongated “S” shape wave pattern, which looks much more natural and relaxed than not twisting the strand. Cool girl, “undone” hair has been the go-to look in high fashion since the 90s.. yet a lot of smaller cities and towns still haven’t adopted the effortless look as a look to wear on a night out or to an event. Perfectly curled hair is considered outdated, unless you are going to a gala, of course. I suggest adding some disheveled texture to make any hairstyle more stylish.
Once all the waves are set and complete, evenly spray one light, even coat roots to ends of my FAVORITE, KMS California Hairstay Dry Extreme Hairspray. The product is so amazing that even my good friend, celebrity makeup artist, Georgi Sandev, loves to set eyebrows to be perfectly groomed on his supermodel clients, by spraying it on an eyebrow brush and brushing the brows into place. What makes the hairspray so amazing is that it is workable yet has a strong hold, and is brush-able but leaves no residue behind.
We used an amazing trick to make any wig look incredibly natural on set behind the scenes with Joan Smalls. We began prepping her natural hair by sectioning off 1.5” of her hairline around her face. We also sectioned off a “U” shape on the top of her head to leave her natural parting and hairline out. Use YS Park “Shark” Sectioning Clips to pull those sections out of the way. Gather the rest of the hair tightly at the base of the neck and make a braid. Use Nishida Bobby Pins to pin the ends of the braid at the nape of the neck to hide away the natural hair.
Time to transform! Place a u-part wig behind the hairline section and below the u-part section. Use Nishida Bobby Pins by the ears, nape, and along the top part of the U shape of the wig to secure the wig on the head. If your hair color is different than the color of the wig, use a Perfect Locks Full Lace Human Hair Wig, without a u-part.
Take down the sectioned-off hair and drop it over the top of the wig to cover the wig seams and voila .. the wig looks so real!
Next, I protected and infused nutrients into Joan’s natural hair at her exposed hairline and parting with Message Organics Elixir Première roots to ends. Joan’s natural hair is coarse and curly.. so her natural hair texture is a perfect example of when this product can be applied even at the roots, simply because it absorbs oil based products very well. On finer hair textures, use only a small amount on the ends. Use the blow dryer and the Mason Pearson Brush to smooth out the hair roots to ends.
Pump up the volume of the roots on the top of the head to get a fluffy, disheveled look using BaByliss Pro Nano Titanium Professional Ionic Roller Set. I like to secure each roller by using Diane U-Pins (which I learned backstage at Paris Fashion Week), but it’s also easy to use the roller clips that come with the rollerset. Take horizontal sections, a similar size of the roller size. Use the same twist-and-wrap technique as mentioned earlier that we did with the curling iron. Wind the 1-1.5” diameter rollers backwards away from the face. If the rollers are slippery to put in, use the KMS California Hairstay Dry Extreme Hairspray on each section for grip and extra hold. Use a tissue on top of the ears to prevent the ears from heating up.
Once the roller set cools down, remove the rollers and shake out. Have an easy to use, Hot Tools Professional Curling Iron or a BaByliss Nano Titanium Straightening Iron nearby to fix and edit any pieces that need a touch of refinement.
TAKE A SELFIE to complete (and tag us @documentbeauty / #documentarybeauty so we can see! We LOVE seeing these looks come to life out in the world).