BEHIND THE SCENES BEAUTY
starring julia banas
red eye liner bold lips
By Beauty Editor Christine Cherbonnier
For as long as I can remember, I have been obsessed with an all-red dress moment on the red carpet. Obsessed with seeing how the makeup artist was going to pull off the makeup without clashing or matching the intensity of the dress. For this look, I was very much inspired by the color of Julia’s body suit, and thankfully I had a little more creative freedom so I went with a deep crimson lip, a bright red eyeliner, and painted lashes to really intensify the eyes.
This is a creative and easy-to-do liner, maybe not your everyday eye but so easy if you're in the mood for something fun and different. I wanted the liner to be bright in color but not perfect like a drawn on liquid liner. I painted the lashes red to really intensify the lash line and make her blue eyes pop. I used my fingers to blend out the color towards the temples, creating a hazy effect at the outer corners of the eye. When going through the edit days after the shoot, my Co-Editor-In-Chief Kayla said, this look was definitely the gothiest of them all! I loved that moment and that I was able to give our vibrant red story a dark side.
This makeup design was later in the day, so I took a moment to refresh the skin by removing all her makeup from the morning. I wanted the skin to be radiant and more raw for this one. I used Bioderma Sensibio H20 for sensitive skin with a textured cotton pad to remove makeup, and then re-moisturized her skin using Message Organics Elixir Première. I love using this hydrating elixir with a Q-tip for quick touch ups under the eyes. It wipes away fall from the shadow gently, and is great around the eyes for even the most sensitive skin types. I then re-curled Julia’s lashes with the Shu Uemura lash curler before starting the eye.
I created the bold red liner using the Ben Nye’s MagiCake Aqua Paint in Bright Red. I sprayed the product with Evian water spray and mixed until the consistency was thick not watery. Using more or less water will determine how much pigment you apply for your desired look. I used a nontraditional makeup brush, a synthetic angled paint brush from Blick art supplies very similar to the MAC 266 brush. I try to always use synthetic brushes when using bright color and especially when using grease paints, but a good vegan brush set is a must-have. I love the feel of the Cozette synthetic brushes at Alcone and Makeup Forever makes great synthetic brushes, too. After placing a tissue against the cheek and under the lower lashes right up to the water line, I carefully painted Julia’s lashes top and bottom, focusing the color on both sides of the lashes to really saturate the lash in color. This pigment is activated by water so it easily comes off with makeup remover. I would not suggest painting lashes with a grease paint. Using a powder pigment and mixing mediums to create your custom eyeliner color works great, too. Be very careful not to get the pigment in the eye! LOL! The paint dries to a smudge-proof finish, so if applied correctly should not run into the eye at all.
After the lashes were painted I pressed the Aqua color into the lash line on the top and bottom, pulling my brush across the lashes as I go. I used my Mac #239 flat shadow brush to buff the color out on the bottom to give it a blurred effect so not to have a perfectly straight line. I then took my fingers and pulled the shadow out towards the temples so there was a little halo effect around the outer corner of the eye. Lastly, I took the Anastasia clear brow gel to comb through the brow. I cleaned up any transfer from the liquid liner under the eyes before using the Charlotte Tilbury Retoucher Pen #2 in Fair. After touching up under the eye, I buffed a dab of the retoucher pen around the creases of the nose and through the T-zone.
For Lips I used the MAC pencil in Night Moth and one of my favorite NARS lip colors, Deborah. I used the leftover Charlotte Tilbury airbrush pen that was on my brush and buffed it over the lips to take away any imperfections around the mouth and remove color from the lips. Using the MAC pencil I started with the outer corners of the lip, drawing inward on top and bottom. I like to perfect the cupid’s bow before pulling the pencil all the way up from the outer corner of the mouth to the top of the lip. Lastly, I used my MAC #195 synthetic eyeshadow brush to brush NARS Deborah over the darker liner focusing the lighter color in the center of the lips. I love using this eyeshadow brush on the lips; I’ve never understood why lip brushes are made so small. I prefer a larger brush that contours the lip shape better and doesn’t cause little brush strokes in your lip design.
For my finishing touches I threw on the tiniest amount of cream contour using the Tom Ford Shade and Illuminate palette right under the cheekbones. I finished with the Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector in Pearl pretty much all over the face. I would cover my entire body in this product if I could, I love it! I mix this cream with moisturizer, foundation, everything, It photographs so beautifully and looks like skin, not textured shimmer. For this look I swiped it on the tops of the cheek with my Georgio Armani Maestro Blending Brush, on the top of the nose and a little on the chin to create an all-over sheen to the skin. I left the T-zone powder-free to give the skin a more raw, hydrated finish.
I hope this look inspires you to play with color and try a bright red eye or bold crimson lip. If you're feeling brave, try any of the Ben Nye’s MagiCake Aqua Paints. They come in so many beautiful bright colors and can be used as eye shadows and face paint as well. It’s really fun using different mediums to create your own custom colors, perfect for a holiday party this time of year, or if you just happen to wake up feeling a little more dramatic!